Monday, April 23, 2007

Loyalist Committee Gown (AOTC)



Padme' wears this gown near the beginning of Attack of the Clones...when she and the other members of the Loyalist Committee meet with Chancellor Palpatine and members of the Jedi Council. She is also wearing this gown when she reconnects with Obi-Wan Kenobi and Anakin Skywalker in her apartment.

Then gown consists of several parts: a bodice, skirt, velvet overcoat, brooch, choker, and head-dress. The gown was inspired by Elizabethan-Era styles, while the headpiece was inspired by central African styles. The overcoat is in a burn-out velvet that appears to be in a "flame" pattern. The long, open, flowing sleeves are connected in the back with a beaded brooch. The sleeves of the bodice consist of inner and outer layers, where the outermost layer is heavily detailed with a scrolled pattern. The bodice also has a heavily sequined triangle on the center-top, outlined with a V-shaped border with a similar scrolled pattern as the sleeves. The skirt contains a tabard with a detailed scrolled pattern very similar to the sleeves of the bodice. Following will be a description as to how I made this costume...broken down by piece, including pattern, fabric, accents, etc.

BODICE

Pattern:

Simplicity 4508(B) -- Required modifications

Fabric:

Purple Costume Satin (joann.com)
Crepe-back Satin in lavender (Joann Fabrics)--for outer-sleeve lining
Crinkle Silk Jacquard (Silk Connection)--hand dyed with mixture of approximately 2 parts Navy to 1 part Purple RIT dye
Purple tonal cotton (Joann Fabrics)--used for flat-lining
Purple Quarter Flat (Joann Fabrics)--for sequin applique

Sequins:

5mm Black Iridescent (Cartwright's Sequins)
Black Iridescent rocaille beads (Cartwright's Sequins)--to anchor sequins to top

Other:

Featherlite boning used in bodice to help keep shape
For cording pattern...see below

**All cording was hand-sewn onto the gown, using a couching stitch. Here is the hand-traced pattern I used for the V-shape on the bodice and for the sleeves.

SKIRT

Pattern:

Butterick 4452(B) -- Required bustling after project was completed
For the tabard, I drafted my own pattern, using a table runner as my guide


Fabric:

Purple costume satin (joann.com)--skirt was two layers of this fabric


Other:

1/2 inch Horshair braid trim was used in the hem to help stiffen and better-define hemline
For cording pattern...see below

**All cording was hand-sewn onto the tabard using a couching stitch. Here is the hand-traced pattern I used for the tabard.

PETTICOAT



Pattern:

McCalls 4109(B)


Fabric: (all from Joann Fabrics)

White Satin Taffeta
White Bridal Lining
White Spandex Knit
White Nylon Netting

OVERCOAT

Pattern:

McCalls 4697 for bodice
Simplicity 4508 (B) for sleeves
Butterick 4452 (B) for skirt

**All patterns needed heavy modifications...essentially the overcoat in an entirely new pattern**

Fabric:

Burnout Velvet in Flame pattern (Silk Connection) *fabric no longer available here*
Cotton Broad Cloth (Silk Connection) -- for flat-lining velvet
Crinkle Silk Jacquard (Silk Connection) -- for lining of overcoat

**All fabric was hand dyed using approximately 2 parts Navy to 1 part Purple RIT dye

Crepe Back Satin in lavender (Joann Fabrics) for piping


**The overcoat was attached to the bodice at the junction of the triangle using heavy-duty skirt hooks and eyes

CORDING

2mm Rattail cord in purple (M&J Trim) -- Required hand-dying with pure Navy RIT dye to obtain a more accurate color to match gown (original purple was too purple)
Kreinik Metallic Cord in purple #8 (012 10M)

BROOCH

5mm Peacock Blue Iridescent sequins (Cartwright's Sequins)
Peacock Blue Iridescent Rocaille beads (Cartwright's Sequins)
Toho 11/0 round treasure beads in navy (Joann Fabrics)
4.5mm Black Iris Bugle Beads (Cartwright's Sequins)

Quarter Flat in Blue (Joann Fabrics)
Navy felt (Joann Fabrics)
1-1/4" Steel pin back
Cardboard

**Pattern for brooch was traced onto quarter flat, and sequins were hand-stitched onto fabric, which was then glued onto cardboard. Felt was used on back of brooch, and pins were attached to this. The brooch holds the long sleeves of the overcoat together in the back

NECKPIECE

Featherlite boning (7 approximately 16" pieces)
24 gauge wire
7mm Brass Spring Ring with eyelet gold plated closure

**Wire was wrapped around boning, and then hand painted with Folk Art Acrylic Paint #660, Metallic Pure Gold

HEADPIECE

Activ-wire diamond aluminum mesh
18 gauge wire
24 gauge wire
Felt in cranberry
Micro braid synthetic hair #27 Straw Blond (Ebony online)
1/2" Faux leather strips
Folk Art Acrylic Paint #660, Metallic Pure Gold

UPDATED: 6/22/07


**The aluminum mesh was used to provide the base for the headpiece. The 18 gauge wire was used to help keep the shape of the headpiece, while the 24 gauge wire was used to attach the pieces. The wire base was then covered with felt, and the synthetic braids were glued to the felt (I had attempted to stitch the braids onto the felt with invisible thread, but it was taking too long). The faux-leather strips were painted with the Metallic Gold paint, and glued to the headpiece over the braids. I glued two comb-like headbands to the opening at the bottom of the headpiece (inside), and used alligator hair clips to attach the headpiece to a bun I made with my own hair. Because it was so heavy and tended to fall off of my head without additional support, I had to further attach the headpiece to my head with a number of bobby pins.

Here are some pics of the finished gown and choker. Finally...here are the pics of the finished headpiece!!

Saturday, April 7, 2007

Meadow Picnic Gown (AOTC)



Padme' wears this gown while on a picnic with Anakin when they are to be in hiding on Naboo. This is my favorite costume of hers, and my first attempt at a reproduction of an intricately detailed costume, taking approximately 6-7 months to finish. I learned quite a bit while working on this: different embroidery stitches, the art of pattern alteration and improvisation, and crocheting (something of which I still am not real good at doing). Although my skirt is a little short compared with the real costume, I am happy with the work I did. Following will be some of the details regarding the construction of this costume, broken down by part (blouse, skirt, corset, cape, headband/snoods).

Blouse & Skirt

Pattern:
Simplicity 9966 (A) for blouse
Simplicity 4599 (C) for skirt--required lengthening

Fabric:
Gold Silk Chiffon from Thai Silks (outer layer)
Gold Casa Chiffon from JoAnn Fabrics (middle layer(s))
Gold Casa Charmeuse from JoAnn Fabrics (inner layer)

Sequins:
Hand punched with Butterfly Mini craft punch out of Shimmer sheetz in white iris
(from Rubber Designs)
Attached to fabric with Fabritak

Beads:
Darice Jewelry Designer 1101-40 glass transparent rainbow seed beads 10/0 light
green and 1101-18 glass rocaille beads 10/0 light blue

Embroidery Floss: DMC brand
Vining: 3045
Flowers: 3046

Corset

Pattern:
Butterick 4452(B) --minimal alterations

Fabric:
Double Weave Crinkle Habotai from Thai Silks---dyed with Tan RIT dye
Gold metallic crunch from JoAnn Fabrics
Gold Casa lining from JoAnn Fabrics
Natural Duck Cloth from JoAnn Fabircs

Embroidery thread: DMC brand
Flames: 742; 743; 727
Arches: 676; 744
Leaves: 522; 523
Roses: 3685; 3687; 3689; 778
Daisies: 745; 746
Gold Stitcing: 5282 (looks great, but pain to work with)

Other:
Used Sulky Dissolvable Stabilizer for embroidery pattern
Poly boning used
Closed with hooks & eyes
Embroidery floss was run through white beeswax to add stiffness and to help prevent
knotting
Embroidery pattern traced by hand (sorry it is turned length-wise rather than width-wise)



Cape

Pattern:
Essentiall drafted myself. Draped muslin and cut from there

Fabric:
Antique Rose Curtain Panel from Wal-Mart dyed with Tan RIT dye (needed to cut
extra roses to tack over those that soaked up dye)

Edging:
Scallped edge covered with Sulky variegated embroidery Thread #2114 (Avodado)

Pin:
Dragonfly pin found at Target

Other:
Used Sulky Tear-Away Stabilizer for edging
Attached to blouse with clear snaps

Ribbons

Headband:
Offray Flair Gold3 5/8" (outer layer)
Sheer Creations Item M9960 5/8" (middle layer)
Offray Grossgrain Olvdrb3 5/8"(inner layer)
* Ribbons were glued together and then hand embroidered with floss used for
corset roses

Armbands/Hair: All Offray, and 7/8"
SprMos3; Moss5; Wild Orchid5; LtPink5; BMaize5

Other:
Armbands attach to blouse with clear snaps

Snoods

J & P Coats Thread/Yarn: Metallic Knit-Cro-Sheen (Article A-64M: Color 90G Gold/Gold;
Size 10)


Here are the pics of the final product. Please ignore the Myrtle Beach shirt under the costume...I needed a long-sleeved shirt to hold the shape of the blouse.